In the period of the so-called restoration, the perspective also changed for women’s fashion, and from around 1820 there was a return to old forms. The period from the end of the Vienna Congress in 1815 to the beginning of the bourgeois revolution in 1848 in the countries of the German Confederation is known as the Biedermeier period.
Ladies Fashion
After the era of the Empire style between 1795 and 1820, women’s fashion in Biedermeier became simpler, but also much more uncomfortable. The waist was emphasized again from 1835, and the crinoline and corset became indispensable items of clothing of the higher classes. As early as 1820, the sleeves of the day dresses became so voluminous that they were a hindrance even when playing the piano. They are known as mutton leg sleeves or balloon and ham sleeves. They were shaped using horsehair and whalebone. Patterned fabrics were very popular: checkered, striped or floral. Iridescent silk fabrics were often chosen for the evening. The typical headgear of that time was the barn, a hood-like hat. The shoes were flat with no heel. Cashmere scarves and parasols were important accessories. The Biedermeier hairstyles were initially complex and were adorned with ribbons and bows, but from 1835 the hair was simply styled into a neck knot, the chignon, with side corkscrew curls.
Restoration
In the period of the so-called restoration, the fashion of the Empire period was largely preserved until the Vienna Congress in 1815. The dresses were still high waist; the redecorated skirts were tubular and fell to the ankles. The shoes were tied crosswise with ribbons. The dress ended at the neck in a thick ruff or in the ball gown in a shoulder collar made of lace. The tight sleeves went almost to the fingertips, or long gloves were worn. The hats were reminiscent of men’s cylinders, had a wide peak at the front and a narrow peak at the back.
Biedermeier
A complete change began around 1820. The waist, emphasized by a slight constriction, returned to its original place and the skirt widened further down. The waist narrowed over time (wasp waist), while in the 1820s the sleeves were puffed up from small puffy sleeves to so-called gigots (mutton legs), which even disturbed playing the piano.
The skirts finally became so wide that they finally formed deep folds. Any plaster could therefore no longer be used. This shortcoming was compensated for from around 1830 with invigorating patterned fabrics: checkered, striped or floral. They were carried without feet. In the outgoing Biedermeier the sleeves finally became longer again, while the hem of the smooth, wide skirt touched the floor.
The Biedermeier hairstyles were mainly characterized by the middle parting, from which the hair, interspersed with barrettes and combs, goes wider, in order to be finally tied tightly over the middle of the head to form a high knot. The elaborate hairstyle was finally decorated with ribbons and bows. The wealthier lady or the nobles wore next to the diadem (up to 1820) in the hair in addition decorative combs and hairpins. At the end of the 1830s, however, the hair was simply styled into a chignon with side curls.
The typical headgear of that time was the barge that emerged around 1800. The hood-like hat was initially reserved for maids, but was also accepted by women in the course of the 1830s. The shoes were flat with no heel. The most common accessories included parasols, cashmere scarves and fans.
Men’s Fashion
Biedermeier men’s fashion was anything but comfortable. The fashion model from 1800 to around 1830 was the dandy, the prototype of which was the Englishman George Bryan Brummell. During this time, the male clothing was worn tight-fitting, so that many men reached for a lacing belt. The shirts had a so-called father – killer collar that constricted the neck. For this, long trousers, so-called pantalons, were worn for the first time since 1815, striped or floral vests and a frock coat or tailcoat. Headgear was the top hat. The artistically knotted tie was also important, a walking stick, gloves and a pocket watch, possibly a lorgnon. After 1820, cheekbones, upper lips and goatees were no longer considered revolutionary, but the full beard was first seen as a symbol of liberalism and later as a symbol of a social revolutionary spirit, as was the case with Karl Marx and Friedrich Hecker. Long sideburns called Favoris were indispensable at that time.
The meaning and cut of tailcoat and frock coat had hardly changed since the beginning of the century. Male clothing was also worn tightly at this time, so that many men reached for a lacing belt. The shirts had a so-called father – killer collar that was tight around the neck. Long trousers (pantalons) and striped or floral vests came into fashion for the first time in 1815. The long boot had given way to the so-called ankle boot. Headgear was the top hat.
Important for the other equipment were an artfully knotted tie, a walking stick, gloves and a pocket watch, possibly a lorgnette. After 1820 were jaw, upper lip or chin beard no more than revolutionary, but the beard was the symbol of liberalism. Long sideburns called Favoris were essential during this period.